" The fashion city " Environmental pollution difficult position of

" The fashion city " Environmental pollution difficult position of the new pool

The core is pointed out: Step on the new pool of famous town of the foot jeans, will find, it and real " fashion city " Greatly differ from each other, and crisis-ridden. The raw materials rise, fund weak, constantly upward manpower cost, lacking brand awareness All these let this professional town walk haltingly.
It take place A squat at ground as Xiao Gao half,by squat one of new-comers type by editions of teacher and people to take sample, in front of 8 piece cortex will put in ground sign,it is seam at jeans cortex LOGO at the low back. All people are waiting for the opinion that A is sending. Xiao Gao tries inquiring after, " how do you feel? " Silence takes place and points to " J M T M H Z Y " in A for a moment Several show stiff letter, say " here make a change, the letter must link up slightly, see the meeting living a bit " . The person who takes the sample nods, has accepted the things, has walked rapidly. A sends and tows a pair of very large, gaudy and red C R O C S sandals, gets back to the seat, continue changing the design of the pattern on the buttocks pocket of the jeans on the computer. Quickly, on the screen, the both wings that the wild goose flew in the lines of form have slipped several degrees downwards. Except that the intersection of A and the intersection of other side and wall that facing toward leaven dough, room fill-up jeans among being whole, those various men's clothing cowherds of color, line, surface fabric such as being dark blue, light blue, pitch black, dark-grey have hung three walls, but also the jeans have been piled on the edition of width of two meters platform. Several designer, only whom they claim play editions of teacher, bury, pile in the cowherd. A it takes place to be new the intersection of pool and the intersection of town and large the intersection of mound and the intersection of village and morning the intersection of roc and the intersection of clothes and the intersection of factory and fighting editions of teachering most reputable, in this factory that specially makes cowherd's men's clothing, have already worked for three years. 30 kilometers, take the big bus for 40 minutes, will reach and increase the new pool town of the city - national jeans first town from Guangzhou eastwards. Sell three pairs of jeans each time in the whole world, one come from the new pool. There is a very large international cowherd's city in the new pool town, nearly one thousand cowherd's clothes sell the stand inside. The black one, dark blue, light blue, is ground into several ten thousand pairs of jeans of different black and white, holes and paved with the whole market. Those name little devil, little strange beast, little person who fly to chivalrously jeans of different little unknown brands fill-up the whole market. Sticking to " Spit blood to dump " Stand at,most be sold for 30 yuan each jeans when it is cheap only, if bargain with sisterses little of selling goods, can also make a deal at lower price. The jeans of the newest style, usually only sixty or seventy yuan for one. The most expensive jeans of whole market do not exceed 100 yuan absolutely. Dozens of the fragmentary ones sell cowherd's cloth, enterprise that process adjuvants and is enclosed in the periphery in cowherd's city the most. China, is known as the large factory of the world, especially the fashion, textile trade, from 1994, produce and export and take one's place and rank the top in world, later the proportion increased year by year. Because this trade solves a large number of people's employment, make the area rich and populous rapidly, been letting people regard as a pride all the time. Have spread all over characteristic towns that is processed of various textile clothes in long trigonometry, pearl trigonometry. Especially Guangdong, there are 15 special towns in a province. Someone calls such a small town " The fashion city " . Behind this kind of only fresh call, that let people remember dimly is Paris, Milan, Florence. The new pool, as the professional town of the jeans, the scale lets people acclaim as the acme of perfection, there are more than nearly 3000 cowherd's clothes and relevant enterprise, clothes brands of more than 1000 already registered cowherds, more than 100,000 outside personnel engaged in cowherd's clothes trade. But step on the foot " The famous town of the jeans " The new pool, will find, it and real " fashion city " Greatly differ from each other, and crisis-ridden: The manpower cost, lacking the enterprises with brand awareness, design level that the raw materials rise, with weak, constantly upward fund is low, the more serious one is, the heavy environmental cost which the locality pays All these let the small town walk haltingly. And these, it is just a epitome of the whole China textile manufacturing industry. Cowherd world step the intersection of person who is fool and most frequently used public means of transportation - -Motorcycle back seat, takes 10 yuan, master worker rubing it will let you experience a tour of the magic. " at your side, by me that hold the stranger's low back, listen to Deng Lijun that familiar sound, although the road is far, not tired, accompany you to overflow a Section of conduct to connect for a while "The factory signboard on both sides of the road begins more and more intensive, enter the boundary of a piece of land longly and abundantly several minutes later. The cloth in the cloth shop are not put in the store, but set up in the street, even pack the pavement. In it is here cowherd ocean of cloth,transfer motorcycle to other use but. Do not have several minutes, has entered ocean of factory. All a samples of factory. It is not several people's small workshop of family, it is not the production line of the large-scale clean, flowing water homework. The first floor is the large unlimited work cubicle as garage, a variety of jeans are in disorder if the mountain is the same piled on the ground, the ones that sit down to the street at the shop gate are all cutting to the granny in the end of a thread over 40, ones that and then press inside, hitting what the cowherd nailed and deducted, on two, the third floor among real clothing. And the bosses and hit a edition of division to all concentrate into the intermediate layer that oneself put up among the first floor and second floor Everything is also really also unreal. 28 years ago, a Hong Kong businessman invested the first " processing of investor's raw materials " in the large mound village Cowherd factory,now,last jean every day, since thousands of morning roc factories such a send out, flow from the new pool out. Type editions of teacher, push away door, one the intersection of Northeastern and Mr. enter, play among the edition. Familiar with the frequent customers in the new pool, will all get used to getting on the stair directly, going to the intermediate layer between just a few storeys to see the goods. "7503, how much can you accomplish? " Northeastern boss asks. "60. " A sends and answers. Northeastern boss touches goods number " 7503" That saying " whether it is as really well not to wash by water, but have true and expensive than that of others house house you " in pair . It is anxious to explain, take out several the same having a few trousers of difference by surface fabric and color style first for A to take place. These will be cheap and above 5 or 10. " what you took a fancy to is that the surface fabric is best, washed water, color and made best too " . The Northeastern boss nods, say sentences and " see again " ,Have left. Communicate with the customer directly, find out about the customer's taste, this is that A sends a very important part of work. Come every customer it ask it goods,will play several piece by editions of teacher in by accompany,especially customer some edition that be designed in oneself, will all expect in the heart secretly " Explode edition " Arrival. In the new pool, roc's clothing factory can be regarded as the medium-sized scale in the morning. Dozens of workers, hit one edition of divisions like 5 sending in A. How many workers work in the factory on earth, it is not the important factor of weighing the scope of the enterprise, have several take place playing editions of teachering such like A, the intersection of factory and sign of capability one of. To hitting one edition of divisions, if one jeans book several over 5000, sell more first pairs of trousers while being every, they can deduct a percentage 1 mao. What they expect " Explode edition " ,The trousers that oneself designs are sold like hot cakes. Once that A sends in 2009 " Explode edition " ,Sold 50,000 pairs of trousers in one month. Cowherd's fashion throughout the year, sends edition coming out from A in the hand and 80 the light in every quarter. This leaves people's cognition of fashion big shot of the international cowherd and greatlies differ from each other. The style that LEVI' S, CALVIN KLEIN, DKNY such super cowherd's fashions put out in one year, what is not A did not sent a person three months to make is many. But the classical fund like LEVI' S 501, the hot sales has never happened in the new pool in decades. In the morning roc, the style sold best will disappear after half a year too. If compared with 501 the sales volume of the single fund, can ignore. Too famous brand on having nothing all the time of the new pool jeans, several so-called national famous brands, to metropolitan person, have never heard of too. Have piece ask little the intersection of evil spirit and little famous brand of fish appear, will appear countless similar brand on the street, little devil, devil's mood, tip fish A what is called one type editions of teacher, play new edition, produce new style, every very much the same too. All products mainly sell the wholesale market of city of two the strategic hinterlands of China. Make some hard-earned money by the sales volume. There are more and more people setting up a factory, the profit is spread out gradually too thinly. This kind of low-level and constantly repeated design, it has been the keeping in check of cowherd's development of new pool all the time. A sent to enter this trade five years ago, this was while hitting one edition of divisions in thousands of new pools, also regarded as reputably. He leave the intersection of native place and Jiangxi 21 that year such as year old, finish studying in a special secondary school in he those, it was an electronic speciality that was studied, but he does not like, follows a friend who does clothes to the new pool, have run the lathe work in a small clothing factory. Can only take several hundred yuan in the first three months, begin to get 1500 yuan in the fourth month, at the same time, he nearly learns the work of all processes, comes to like this trade too. Then, he has gone to the white cloud clothes training school of Guangzhou to read the dress designing of two and a half years again, have turned from the lathe work into and hit one edition of divisions. After graduating, do for two years in a factory, jump to the morning roc, his salary rises from 3000 yuan 7000 yuan. Have two weekends at least each month, A can take the big bus car to go to Guangzhou to send, the market of clothes getting to the station in West Road sees edition, " white horse " , " red cotton " It is the place where he often lingers on. Annual he will go to Hong Kong two times at one's own expense. In 2010, he also goes South Korean once, have an opportunity to stroll around the store of South Korea, see their popular colour, style. Stroll around the market of clothes, it is his only learning opportunity to see the fashion of cowherd that others designed, so real a fashion city of Paris, Milan, New York, don't say that train, went to travel, A sent and has not even thought. The crisis takes place in A still when waiting for pleasant surprise to come with Xiao Gao's such hitting one edition of divisions, but thousands of bosses of the new pool only have sorrow left. The crisis of the whole trade is falling into the deep valley at the end of 2010 since 2008. In the new pool, cowherd's clothes enterprises are divided into two kinds, mainly is sold in other areas and sells inside the country. The jeans for export of 30% of the whole country go out of and make a fresh start the pool, the ones that are assaulted are this part of enterprises at first. It is half a year ago been Xiao for Gao jump to by roc of morning,before this in hundred million forest clothing factory pay out wages him as money. Hundred million forest clothing factories belong to marketting one's own products. The new pool jeans are mainly sold in other areas to Russia, Ukraine, France, Indonesia and U.S.A., it is Russia and Ukraine to sell in the country largest in proportion in other areas. In becoming the enterprises sold in other areas, take the place of accounting for 1/3 of engineering, the ones that sell to Ukrainian and wholesale market are taken partially low directly. In 2008, the reason of the economic crisis, the European market shrinks on a large scale, in addition, the international markets all settle account by U.S. dollar, the price differential that RMB appreciate and bring by a wide margin nearly wipes all profits of flat enterprises, even cause some enterprises to close directly. In 2010, the crisis will be expanded to the enterprises sold inside the country. The price of the cotton rises, cause the price of the cloth to rise on a large scale. Only the cloth rises, the cost of a pair of jeans rises 15 to 20 yuan, jeans at 50 yuan as to the ex-factory price just, this is enormous amount of the increase. Roc's spirit dragon arrow clothing factory opposite to the road of clothing factory faces the predicament in the morning. It is reduced by 60% compared with the previous year that the order is counted, single runs more and more too. It causes the cost to rise that the cloth rises in price, the inflation has caused the staff to demand to increase the salary strongly, nearly there is no profit at all finally. Shopkeeper wife face holds into the office gloomily, husband boss Luo watches the magazine aside, the son is playing games in front of the computer all day, because it is rare that there are customers to call, occupied with nothing all day. "If that day not returning to homeland finally, 20 several investment of Wan can protect, come back one will be better. " The shopkeeper wife says stupefiedly. From September of 2010 to November, this clothing factory produces 3000 pairs of jeans altogether, slightly relax in December, return 5000 to, but in in the past, each 10,000 amount of production of string at least in month. When orders were the most in 2006, once reached more than 40,000 of monthly output. Boss Luo's whole family of clothing of supernatural dragon arrow begin to do the business of the clothes in Guiyang of native place at the beginning of 1990 times, go to the new pool to stock up, find the business opportunity, in 2004, the whole family moved to the new pool, opened the factory. When the factory just ran, it was most noisy, most flourishing period of time of new pool too. Thousands of factories all catch up with the worker around the clock, there are too many to be finished orders at all. At over 11 o'clock every night, the street is still brilliantly illuminated, several tens of thousands of grannies sit along the street, cutting the end of a thread. The shopkeeper wife remembers that flourishing in old times, just dimple the splendor in the eyes. " you take a walk in the large mound street now, 8 o'clock in the evening, nearly all factories have already closed the door " ,Retract reality, twinkling of an eye is dim. "It is that there are many local bosses when at first, they are rich on having no people to like to continue making the manufacture of clothes, the ones that changed to be and make money even more floated and dyed, washed the water plant. That continued making the clothes and made is that there are more and more nonlocal bosses " . Following boss Luo familiar Guiyang Mr. later has a dozen people. A large number of nonlocal clothing enterprise's bosses stay in the new pool, because earn the money, but is tied here. On the industry roller chain of cowherd's textile industry, the end in clothing is in. Go to cloth enterprises, adjuvants enterprises to pay the whole fund when buy raw materials. In hand in, give, wash trousers water plant pay the expenses at once too wash ink, polish, one fen of expenditure at 10 yuan of each pair of trousers can't be few. But when the ready-made clothes were sold, the whole seller has been continuing to use the way to sell on credit all the time. "In the intersection of order and good time, remit money, can only up to 40% those years, can be up to 60% will it be first half second year. " The shopkeeper wife says. Order sharp concessionary people have a headache, let boss as if sitting on pins and needles furthermore, what no returned money expect even, the goods which the whole seller can not sell finally, will retreat back again for them. Even trousers coming out in production Can't turn into money. The rental of factory building has been handed in, dozens of machines have been bought, even if lose, most people must continue to keep. In 2010, the bosses of small and medium-sized enterprises, the greatest extravagant hope is to break even. Also someone begins to consider having a deficit and leaves. There are more and more places that the whole country produces the cluster of taking shape of the jeans, Yulin of Guangxi, Shijiazhuang, Hebei, Anhui Hefei The cost of these places is lower. The cost is in the new pool, furthermore it was the environmental pollution that an industry brings and healthy secret worry of some employees that let people worry. Cowherd trade, it is an essential link to wash water. A pair of jeans are top-grade, middle-grade, low-grade, except surface fabric, design, the most important thing is to see and wash water. New the intersection of pool and the intersection of the trend of events and day by day another cowherd town the past two years of cowherd - -Shuande set up over,wash water craft as people reasons important too. But no matter how craft is, as a necessary link on industry chain, print and dye, wash water to the big and small professional town of textile, it is essential, but produced the pollution of the environment most easily too. In November of 2010, there are 3 sampled points in an investigation which one NGO organization releases in the new pool, the content of lead of heavy metal, copper and cadmium exceeds the country " environmental quality criteria of soil " among the bottom mud samples inspected by ready samples, cadmium in a bottom mud sample exceeds standard 128 times, and pH value of a water sample is up to 11.95. The initial one washes and dyes the factory and is built in the large mound village, has polluted the river, the local villager's opinion is great. From 2006, new the intersection of pool and town begin, control on a large scale, wash water plant, printing and dyeing mill, adjourn to new the intersection of pool and the intersection of town and the intersection of the west and west the intersection of continent and industrialized country in environment protecting mode of village gradually. According to the planning of the government of Guangzhou, after floating and dyeing enterprises to move and enter the garden, central heating of the garden, water supply and centralized sewage disposal. However, in the garden in environment protecting mode of the village of west continent, are covered with blue silk silk ribbon on the tree in the roadside, the dust in the street is light blue too. It is ubiquitous to polish the dust that the jeans produce. The health of worker working in these enterprises makes people worried too. The young people working as a temporary labourer in the garden nearly come from the other provinces absolutely, the native would rather do 2000 yuan more tired work, also unwilling to do one " Dangerous " Work. Wash Yang Ming that water plant works in ocean ' Assumed name) ,A lock factory of Lishui works as a temporary labourer in Zhejiang yet half a year ago, salary is only 2000 yuan each month, he receives in a telephone of the fellow-villager's of new pool, says the salary here is high, 5000 yuan every month. "Get, wash water plant do two know, print and dye, wash, dye month Processes of the factory should use chemical preparation in a large amount, locals tell me, become in this trade no child will appear in long life. " Yang Ming says. Though what Yang Ming did in the factory is crushed this process, the person of each process actually works in the same space, another process, locals call " gush out horse's red horse " Spray potassium permanganate solution on the clothes, make the cowherd old. Be crushed after gushing out sometimes, crushed first sometimes and then gush out. The persons of two processes are by the work. As to such material harmful to human body, worker's basic fine long hair is unshielded. "When it is hot in summer, gush out pharmaceuticals in the air on the disperse, we are covered with red measles on the skin. " Yang Ming says. How many kinds of harmful substances can encroach on one's own body on earth, no one tells Yang Ming, this has increased his fear even more. And the workers who employed in in the factory, are mostly casual labours, does not sign the contract, there is no guarantee. The salary is just closed three months later. Even if it is harmful to health to find, Xiao Yang must be forced to wait for two months. Before the Spring Festival, got the money, Yang Ming determines to leave. The epitome of cowherd's development of new pool of the route, in fact refracting predicament and barrier of clothes traditional industry development of national textile: Though develop for 28 years, business scale is still scattered distributed, the profit source depends on the meagre processing charge mainly. Moreover, the space of profit is smaller and smaller, environmental pollution is larger and larger in pressure. The Jiang 's of researcher of Urban Devp & Environment Res Cen of Chinese Academy of Social Sciences thinks, the global industry divides the work, stand on the top of the industry, basically have more than 92% of the profits of the industry. If you want to really solve the predicament in the professional town of this kind of textile of new pool, in the course of the industry chain of the whole world, can only shift the existing industry, realize the high quality of the industry. The training from raw materials to product design, talent, the quality of going up of whole industry roller chain. The new pool is explained in terms of industry chain, industry's cluster at present, the roller chain of the industry is very complete, scale the whole country very large, go up quality industry roller chain, it is basically blank. When playing editions of teacher can move towards Paris, Milan real fashion city study so take place like A, the design level is really improved to the world standard, the new pool, will become the real fashion city.
" The fashion city " Environmental pollution difficult position of the new pool